please tell them there’s nothing wrong with New Orleans

It was an odd but repeated request during my time in New Orleans for a nursing conference. “Please go home and tell them there’s nothing wrong with New Orleans. That’s all we ask.” The tour guide for our cemetery tour said that some people thought New Orleans was still under water, even though six whole years have passed since Hurricane Katrina.

So I am here to fulfill my promise to them. There is nothing wrong with New Orleans. In fact, there are a lot of things that are quite right and quite lovely. It was one of the most unique and fascinating cities I have ever had the opportunity to visit. While there are clearly struggles with poverty in NOLA, compounded by a mark left by Katrina that is not always physically obvious but still pervasive in your gut as you walk the streets, there is also a strong sense of a rich culture that did not die, but rather gained a renewed fire because of what this city has endured.

So to answer the question of the potential tourist, New Orleans is not submerged under water. There are more forms of public transportation in NOLA than what you would find in Los Angeles. And they are much, much more charming.

There was, of course, the food! This is the famous Cafe du Monde, serving up its classic combination of beignets and cafe au laits.

I discovered pralines during this trip. I’d always heard of them in the context of other things such as praline ice cream, but never actually knew what a pure praline was: an intense combination of sugar and butter and pecans melted and firmed into the most amazing deliciousness.

There is the spirituality and mysticism of the Big Easy:

There was the architecture, from the *very* old to just old.

These tombs below were those set aside for the Protestants, in the back, less visible area of the cemetery.

This pyramid-like tomb is reported to be Nicolas Cage’s future burial site.

I wish I’d gotten more and better pictures of the charming Creole cottages. But here is at least a glimpse as to the charm of these Southern homes.

And finally, the music. The incredible music that you heard anywhere and everywhere, anytime and every time.

The dueling pianos could play anything that was requested of them.

There were street performers everywhere, young and younger still.

Blues, jazz, bluegrass – NOLA had it all.

The music was what I remember the most. It was as if to say, we still know and love and want to express who we are. New Orleans is alive and well. Come find it in our music.

168 thoughts on “please tell them there’s nothing wrong with New Orleans

  1. Excellent article on the feel of New Orleans. Thanks for the great press we need all the help we can get to let people know we are back. Thanks again.

    Larry Statton
    CEO
    Aunt Sally’s Pralines Shop Inc.

    • It makes me very happy that you found and read this! Aunt Sally’s was absolutely charming, the staff were so warm and welcoming, and the pralines were absolutely out of this world. NOLA is a very, very special place. I feel very honored to play a small part in helping to spread the word about how this amazing city.

  2. First of all, your photos are just beautiful.

    Secondly, I’m so glad that you did a post on New Orleans as I’m sure that there are many misconceptions still floating around out there about what it looks like now. Good on you for setting people straight! ;)

    Congratulations on being Freshly Pressed…well-deserved! :D

  3. This reminds me of the time my friend went to New Orleans to build houses there. She said almost the same thing you did. Their culture is very much alive and she loved every minute of it over there. I’d like to visit it some day and congratulations on being freshly pressed!
    :)

  4. Hi!
    I am Mexican, born and raised in Mexico City.
    Two years ago, a friend of mine convinced us, some of his closest friends, to spend a escape weekend with our wives in NO.
    We had a great time. NO really is a different city within US.
    I certainly recommend to visit it

  5. I just drove by New Orleans on I-10 for the first time, not electing to drive downtown this trip. What surprised me most as I gazed up the city from the car, was the size! It is a lot larger area than I realized, spread out with good size office buildings, and NOLA I imagine being a small piece of that pie. Nice pictures. It definitely is not under water, but the marine layer haze and multitude swamps and canals does give it a sense of being surrounded by water nonetheless. We plan on making a trip there soon.

    • Nope! Just a vanity plate with the legendary “WHODAT” – from the New Orleans Saints cheer… “Who dat say dey gon’ beat dem Saints? WHODAT! WHODAT!” Saint’s fans – throughout the good times and the bad – proudly call themselves Whodats. Laizze Les Bon Temps Rouler, Che’!

  6. Absolutely superb article and the photographs are amazing. Ive always wanted to go to New Orleans and will definitely go now, it looks incredible. Thankyou for sharing and passing the message on.

  7. NOLA is my favorite city. I fell in love there, with the city, and with my excellent life partner, Hal. Thanks for this lovely post and the fabulous photographs!

  8. Great post and amazing pictures. I’ve never been to New Orleans, but it’s definitely on my list of places to go. My parents have been and they loved it! Thanks for sharing your photos and your experience there, and congrats on freshly pressed!

  9. YES!!!!
    I visited N’awlins in 1997 and have always counted it as a lovely, lovely time. The voodoo shop was one of my very favorite things, and I’ve saved a poster from there. Thank you for capturing the essence, and reminding me of how great it was.

  10. As a Native New Orleanian who happened to find this post on Freshly Pressed, I am happy to know that there are people still coming here and enjoying it. I have to say, though, that I think tour guides must know people I don’t know. None of my friends or anyone else I’ve encountered anywhere believes that New Orleans looks the same as it did at the close of 2005.

  11. New Orleans is very much alive and well. I’ll be making my third visit in a year and a half, in just a few weeks. The French Quarter, the Garden District, the cemetery tours, the amazing street musicians, the delicious food and the friendly atmosphere calls me back. I ♥ NOLA!!

  12. Beautiful pictures! I have to admit, I was one of the ignorant- I’d always wanted to visit New Orleans until hurricane Katrina… ever since I had this small minded idea that the city was still a mess. Good to see that it’s back to being the beautiful, intriguing city I’ve been curious about since I was a child :)

  13. I was just in New Orleans mid October. I’ve done nothing but rave about it since my return!
    Please, people, go. We had four full days there and could have used at least one more.
    It was enchanting, charming and worth every minute.

  14. My husband went there right after Katrina to help with the clean-up, and he absolutely loved it there. We live about as far away as possible (Northwest) but we still hope to go someday so I can experience what he did. Well, but better, obviously!!

  15. I am returning to New Orleans (from the UK) for a nursing conference in Feb 2012. I last went in 1993 and am looking forward to reacquainting my-self with this great city. Thanks for sharing your insights and photos…

  16. awesome pictures !!! good job.. new orleans is just another interesting city to visit in states! i used to live in tampa and i have bunch of canadian friends in nola.. they’re partying as hard as they could every ……. well a lot.

  17. I’m glad to see such an encouraging review of New Orleans.
    I’ve played with some of the street musicians you photographed, it’s good to see them in your pictures and know they were part of your beautiful experience there.
    If you want a musician/busker’s account of visiting New Orleans, I wrote three consecutive posts about this year’s Mardi Gras on my messy little blog, beginning with:
    http://endleslie.wordpress.com/2011/03/06/new-orleans/
    Thanks again! It really is a magical city!

  18. Great post!

    I’ve wanted to visit New Orleans for years – ever since my friend came back from a summer there as a student. Then Katrina happened. He went back a few months after and showed me his pictures. Heartbreaking. Great to see the city back on its feet again. I still haven’t visited (there’s an ocean in the way), but I will one day. I listen to WWOZ nearly every day through their website which almost makes me feel like I’m there.

    Dave

  19. So glad you enjoyed my home-away-from-home. Your pictures were absolutely beautiful and they show me that you did your visit right. They also make me feel homesick. I suspect you’ll find a reason to go back….

  20. I visited NOLA for the first time this time last year – and I LOVED it! You captured the feeling perfectly. I miss it. It was warm and beautiful The people were friendly and asked me also to tell others to visit NOLA.

    The guided walking tours were fun and informative and I also got to try beignets for the first time. It’s a great place and I’ll be back!

  21. Thanks for a beautiful post on Louisiana’s crown jewel. New Orleans is probably the most unique city in America or the world for that matter. You should come back and explore a little more off the beaten path. There’s actually so much more to see. Get yourself a native friend and ask them to take you to where the locals go: The Marigny, Magazine St., the Bywater, Mid City and Treme.

    New Orleans is also experiencing a vibrant renaissance in its art scene right now, as is its sister cities in South Louisiana, Lafayette and Baton Rogue. I administer a blog hear on WordPress that explores the art scene here> http://www.louisianaesthetic.com

    You should come by, and check it out! It’s just another side of New Orleans and South Louisiana that many tourists don’t get to see. Right now I’m doing a number of posts about the Prospect New Orleans 2 Biennial, the only international art biennial in North America which is going on right now until the end of January 2012. The last post I just finished features a film documenting a truly incredible and mind blowing art exhibition at the Bywater District residence/speak easy/art space known as the Pearl. This exhibition says practically everything one needs to know about New Orleans from an insiders perspective.

    Thanks once again for the post, and I’m looking forward to following your blog!

    Reggie Micheal Rodrigue

  22. You really captured the feel of the city with your photos! I’m glad you enjoyed your time there. Not only is the nothing wrong with New Orleans, but it is a fantastic place. So fantastic that I just booked a trip there 2 hours ago!

  23. I’ve never been there. New Orleans, city of jazz paradise. I love jazz. And New Orleans is one of the cities where jazz was born. Mainstream, dixie, swing. That swing sound. “It don’t mean a thing if it ain’t got that swing”. Salute to Duke Ellington.

  24. I’ve been to New Orleans twice since Katrina hit, and have to say I heard the same message on both trips. Love the city and the people there, and don’t understand why people think it’s unsafe still. I understand there wasn’t a lot of help thrown their way, but it’s treated like a third world country at times! Great pictures!

  25. Thank you. Your pictures are beautiful, especially those of the hardworking musicians. Thank you for painting a lovely portrait of my new hometown.

  26. Thank you for the kind words about our city. The photos are great. Next time you visit, we’ll have to get you in the neighborhoods. It looks like most of your visit was in the Quarter. It’s the oldest and most important part, but there’s lots more to see. Hope you can come back soon!

    • I would have absolutely loved to go beyond the French Quarter. My time there was so limited since I was primarily in NOLA for a conference. I am already making plans to head back in the near future so I can see more of this incredible place that you are lucky enough to call home.

  27. Great shots. You did a great job capturing the charm of New Orleans. There aren’t many places like the French Quarter that still have that ‘character’ to them. Cheers!
    -Brad

  28. Great capture of the New Orleans “feel.”. Check out a new restaurant in the Bywater opening in December…They were at a recent Fest and had killer food…Maurepas Foods at Burgundy and Louisa in the Bywater.

  29. Fantastic photos..they captured the essence of New Orleans and proved she is back and as good as ever. I’ve only been there once, but it is a place I definitely want to return to. Great post!

    • Thank you, I’m very flattered! I don’t mind at all if you print one of the photos. Can I ask which one you are thinking of? If you do any internet sharing of the photo(s), I just ask that you please give me credit by linking back to my site. Thanks so much!

  30. I am an exBrit, living in Colorado, and have traveled extensively in Europe, but New Orleans is one of my favorite places. It is a wonderful city. I love the food, the atmosphere, the people…..your photos are fantastic. The totally capture the essence of the streets.

  31. I went to New Orleans last December with a great friend of mine and we had an absolute blast. It was, by far, one of the most fascinating places I’d ever experienced! And even he, being a very experienced traveler, agreed that it was one of his most enjoyable vacations. I can’t wait to go back.

    And yes, I agree. New Orleans is fine. There are hints of Katrina as you drive into the city, but this idea that everyone has of the city being completely ruined is simply preposterous. It’s beautiful, the music is fabulous, the people are charming, and the food is delicious!

    Thanks for this post!

  32. I travelled solo to Nawlins for Jazzfest last may, and despite the cautions of family and friends I found it to be the most hospitable and welcoming city I have ever visited! Can’t wait to return :)

  33. Thank you, thank you, thank you for this post. I am a huge fan of New Orleans and have been there many times. Several years ago I returned with my son, and we took a post-Katrina tour. We paid our respects to those who died and to those who survived. But we also explored neighborhoods we hadn’t been to outside the French quarter, attended our first White Linen Night, and, as always wallowed in great food, great music, and great art. My son and a cab driver spoke to each other as though they had known each other forever. That’s New Orleans for me. Not Bourbon Street. Not Mardi Gras. Not the hoopla. But a city beautiful with a unique flair and a huge, welcoming heart.

  34. And it is indeed *very* alive. :) And if it’s any consolation, too, the photos were great and speak volumes of what a great place New Orleans is. :)

  35. ["There are more forms of public transportation in NOLA than what you would find in Los Angeles. "]

    Speaking as a native of Los Angeles, who loves the city with all her heart, it has the worst transportation system I have ever experienced.

  36. Success!! Being from New Orleans, your photos beautifully captured what is truly special and unique about the city and culture here. For those who have experienced it they can understand and those who haven’t should see what it’s all about- at least once. Thanks for keeping your promise when the city could use the boost and thanks for sharing.

  37. Nope… nothing wrong with NOLA… but unfortunately have not been able to get back there since my two year stint in living there. It is a wonderful city… and yet a city that has need.
    I loved being able to sit on a street front at 2am and not be cold. Hated riding my bike home at certain hours of the night.
    A city of such contrasts… I miss her so.

  38. My son goes to school at Tulane and I have completely fallen in love with the city. A ride on the St. Charles streetcar at sunset is one of the greatest things on earth.

    Thanks for sharing.

    • NO was founded on the basis of an enormous swindle on the Paris Stock Market. The NO swindle was one of the causes of the French Revolution. So you could expect there to be graveyard similarities.

  39. Pingback: Nothing Wrong with New Orleans « cavemangroup

  40. Thanks for your fantastic pictures and descriptions of New Orleans. I’ve been to the Big Easy a few times, and your photos definitely bring me back. I like how you checked off the wonderful things down there, and I agree: how pretty the French Quarter is, the tasty food, the music everywhere. The city seemed to have its own sidetrack, as I remember always hearing music, whether it was from a street performer or spilling out from a bar. So you’re doing a great job to tell people that New Orleans is alive — and that life is something special.

  41. Great photos and blog! My first trip to New Orleans was in August 2010. My now husband proposed to me on the riverboat dinner cruise. We have a time share every other year, and I am so excited to go back this year. I truly didn’t want to leave New Orleans. There was just something about that place that spoke to my soul.

  42. Thanks. This was really good. The Pictures are great. I love the whole “second line” thing and the fact that there is such a variety of music available. New Orleans……it’s Back. Yea, it never left.

  43. Thank you for the wonderful pictures of home… It brought a smile to my face to see the first photo was of our historic and beloved trolly. I rode it every morning for 6 years, from the Garden District, up St. Charles, to Canal Street to reach my job in the French Quarter. After moving to the Bywater, right on the edge of Faubourg Marigny, I came to realize how much I missed the old girl.
    I left N.O. for a job two years after Hurricane Andrew – biggest mistake I’ve ever made. HUGE! But I WILL come home.

  44. beautiful! hard home sickness. i have not visited since 2003 and this is a beautiful reminder to my thoughts and moments spent in a magically laid out place on the world’s map. i yearn to go back and i thank you for emphasizing how much this is a priority in my life.
    salaam

  45. Not only was your article really good, but so were your photos–they were superb! New Orleans looks to be about the most fascinating place in this country (after NY, of course, :P )–it seems very European, and not just because of the French attitude that prevails. The people there look like they enjoy living, not just work, work work!

  46. Wow, beautiful post. It’s unfortunate for us further north that we only have the glamorous Jazz Age of New Orleans in our minds and the disasters of Katrina. This post opened my eyes to the reality of the famed place, and also its gradual recovery. Will be planning a trip soon. Beautiful photos!

    • Thanks! Since I was there for a conference, my time and access to the area was so limited. I wish I’d had more time to see and shoot the Creole cottages. I will definitely check out your pics in the near future – thanks for visiting and thanks for sharing!

  47. My first view of New Orleans. Lovely pictures. Its funny how so many things seem the same all over the world. It would be nice if you saw the good offer of making some cash on my site.
    Do share it with some good people who may need some around this time of the year. It is good and not a scam. You can trust me.

  48. I lived in New Awlins for 2 years about 20 years ago and it was the most fun I EVER had! It is one of the most ALIVE cities in the world!!! I am so HAPPY to see and hear that they are alive and well! As you have shown, they have the best food and music , , , great job!

    • Thank you! I so wish I’d had more time to spend taking photos and exploring more in depth. But I was very happy to see and capture what I could. I am determined to go back in the near future!

  49. I love the photography, the city looks to have such a retro and almost cosmopolitan vibe. Ive never been myself but by your descriptions its being added to my travel bucket list! :)

  50. I visited New Orleans this summer, I fell in love with the charm of the place. Having grown up in the UK, France was a regular holiday and walking down the streets in NOLA, I could have convinced myself I was back in France (except humid!). What a beautiful place to visit. I’ll be going back for more beignets!

  51. Pingback: ‘please tell them there’s nothing wrong with New Orleans’ « Bayou Child – One Cajun's Life

  52. Wow these pictures are charming – what camera did you use / how did you get them to look this vintage? I have yet to go, but beignets are my favorite food and I can’t wait to try Cafe du Monde!

    • Thanks so much! The beignets in NOLA are to die for! I used a Canon 60D for these photos. I use Adobe Lightroom and Color Efex Pro to do my post-processing and to create that vintage feel. Thanks for visiting my site!

  53. These photographs are amazing! While I looked at them, it was as if I were in New Orleans for a brief moment. Curiously, some of them reminded me my town, Recife, although it’s really far away from there.

  54. Pingback: NOLA on Fresh Pressed! | a pilgrim's lens

  55. I LOVE LOVE LOVE this post! I made my first trip to New Orleans just about a year ago now, and I’ve been dying to go back. It’s such a fascinating city, full of life and music. You’re right, there’s nothing wrong with NOLA at all. I rave about it to everyone and hope that everyone has a chance to experience it someday. Thanks for all the wonderful pictures!

  56. I thank you for the photographic love letter to my city. And congratulate you on the Freshly Pressed. Although there are areas of the city still in need of repair, I can guarantee you they will be nowhere near the usual tourist attractions. A lot of those were up, running and back to normal before 2005 was out. But we still welcome anyone who wants to come with their sweat equity and help out in the suburban areas.

    Next time you come, try to find Loretta’s Pralines–Aunt Sally’s are good, but I think Loretta’s have a slight edge on them.

  57. Need to get back there. Never recovered from shaking hands with and talking to Clarence ‘Frogman’ Henry. Still have hopes of stealing a kiss from Irma Thomas. Wonder if the King Creole record shop still exists.

  58. such a great article… and what a lovely way to describe new orleans. what i love about a city is character and culture… i look forward to the day that i get a chance to visit this place too… oh, and music, i love music! street artists… there are no such things here in dubai so everytime i read/hear something about it, it excites me. :)

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